Loree oboes F. 1 1951 5815 1976 255 1975 No. IN 46787 USA Telephone: 219-723-4888 Fox oboes Fox bassoons Serial number Year of make Serial number Year of make Serial number Year of make 101 1969 No.woodwind-shop. For Loree oboes, each serial number has two letters and two numbers; for example, my Loree's serial number is OC66. The numbers have been assigned sequentially over time, so letters earlier in the alphabet indicate older instruments.

OTLEY (MDK) - UK out of business in the 1980s? Very well made. Keywork design is nearly 'post modern.' Free blowing. Comparable to Marigaux, Howarth. Worth a look.

The AC Chauvet oboes- not as desirable as the BW oboes, though at times very good. Usually the 'AC' oboes seem brighter in timbre. The BW series Chauvet oboe is darker in timbre than almost any of the other French oboes, comparable to the 'thick wall' late 'B' series Loree oboes model, or the present day Loree 'Royale' model. Warren Sutherland used Chauvet BW oboes throughout most of his career as princpal oboe of the Indianopolis Symphony and Tucson Symphony. The Chauvet oboe was very well made.

Very 'forgiving,' locks in on pitch centers, easy to make reeds for, difficult to play a 'bad note.' Will withstand many decades of school use. Note: a scant few of the 'Gordet' German model oboes will be the 'standard' medium wall thickness Hans Kreul instruments. The keywork at a glance will appear to be the same on both the heavy wall and the standard models, though in fact the 'heavy wall' instrument keywork is heavier- 'overwrought' and 'built like a bank vault.' Personally, I prefer the 'standard' Kreul oboe, as it is not unrelentingly (and hopelessly) 'dark'- the standard Kreul at least has a glimmer of 'bright' element to the sound.

Nowadays, some of the large oboe manufacturers do not have the luxury of seasoning the wood as in 'the old days.' A common practice nowadays is simply to dry the wood for a year or two in an insulated box ('kiln') at 125 degrees. In my estimation, this drying process is absolutely no substitute for seasoning wood!

The only use possible good use for a tuner would be to test the length of a reed or bocal to establish a comfortable A. Beyond this, trust your own ears. Preamble - A Primer on Wood The quality of wood found in many instruments offered by some major manufacturers nowadays seems to be of much poorer quality than wood found in instruments made [say] prior to 1990. Much of the wood presently used for mass produced wooden oboe instruments tends to be 'open' (coarse) grain, from young trees, and exceedingly prone to cracking, or even 'exploding.' Not only is much of the wood used nowadays for oboe production of lesser quality than in decades past, the wood is not truly 'seasoned.' 'Seasoning' oboes woods, according to usual convention, means that the wood is cut into billets, the billets then placed in an unheated warehouse or barn on stickers for air circulation for perhaps 10-20 years. After the initial seasoning process, the un-cracked, un-warped billets will be turned round, and a small pilot hole drilled completely through the pieces.

Very well made. I prefer the model 6000 oboes made after 2010 A. Laubin's “second–line” of instruments. Laubin's specifications, finished by William Glover, voiced by Al Laubin. Good oboes for advanced students/ advanced amateurs. Somewhat bright (“sprightly)“ sound.

A repairman's worst nightmare. Best to avoid. Le BLANC - AVOID, including the student line 'Noblet.' Le BRET - Predecessor to R. LESHER - Lesher made some 'full Consevatory' oboes.

Played extensively throughout Europe. I especially like the oboes from the 1980s, before the introduction of the (dismal) 'Evolution,' 'Symphony,' models- best to avoid.

It is not uncommon to find Chauvet oboe still playing well even after 40 years of school/university use. CHUDNOW, MARK - Some of the 'Sierra' oboes can be exquisite. I especially like the exotic wood examples such as Rosewood. Some Chudnow oboe marked 'MCW' have full Conservatory system, some have 'modified' Conservatory system.

Free blowing. Comparable to Marigaux, Howarth.

I have also seen oboe instruments made from wood so porous that leaks occur through the grain of the wood even if no cracks may be in evidence. Bright tone-dark tone. I am always thankful that oboists tend to have distinctly different preferences across the spectrum of bright and dark tone. I find that I like listening to all manner of oboe sound, from the brightest of the bright to the darkest of the dark. Much of the 'bright' or 'dark' tone is built into the type of oboe played.

Likely best to avoid. FOSSATI - Oboes made pre- mid 2008, I have not been impressed at all. However, since mid- 2008, Fossati has completely redesigned the acoustics, and the result is a positively first class instrument. The new 'MB' model is well worth comparing to (say) Loree, Howarth, Covey, Marigaux, Bulgheroni. The two other Fossati models ('Artiste' and 'Soloiste') also merit a try. FOX - Fox very good-excellent maker. Models 333, 330, 300 are well suited for school use.

Far too many G series oboes seem to be endowed with intractable anomalies. Extremely low resale values for good reason.

'FRENCH' GORDET - Not many 'French model' Gordet oboes were made. Some very few by Chauvet, most by Malerne.

Re: F.Loree Oboe.Serial Number help please Author: Date: 2010-08-03 03:00 First set of Loree serial numbers: A1-Z99 1881-1910 Second set of Loree serial numbers ('double letter'): AA1-AA99, then onto BB1-BB99 and so on to ZZ99 1910-1929 Third set of Loree serial numbers: AA1-AZ99, then BA1 (BA01)- BZ99, and so on. 1929 to present So, two Loree oboes exist with a 'DD' at the beginning of the serial number stamp, though the later (modern) DD oboe will most likely have TWO numbers after the DD, such as: DD05. The keywork patterns of the oboes from the 1910s and the modern series - distinctly different. The oboe in the photographs is a THUMBPLATE system only. C and Bb can be actuated only by the thumbplate OR the single right hand side key. No connection exists between the lower joint and the upper joint, no connection from the F# key to the riser vents for C (B#) and Bb (A#).

The resale value of a fine Laubin oboe of any vintage is very high in comparison to most any other make except Hiniker. LARILEE - I began playing on a Larilee 'full Conservatory, professional model' oboe. The tone was 'extra bright.' The keywork and pad-work was of the most marginal quality. However, the oboe was well voiced and played easily. Some of the Larilees oboes 'sing,' while others can be unbearably 'stuffy.' The keywork is extremely 'bendy' and all too easily knocked out of adjustment.

Disclaimer The opinions expressed below represent only my experience with various makes and models of oboe family instruments so far. Please keep in mind that how an oboe “takes the air” is different, often vastly different, from player to player.

I admire Kreul oboes, though I prefer the usual Hans Kreul and Hans Kreul/Mirafone to the Gordet and 'Lucerne' Kreul models. It is possible on occasion to find a 'Kreul' (or 'Hans Kreul') oboe this is in fact the same model as the heavy 'Gordet' or Lucerne/Kreul. Conversely, it is on rare occasion possible to find a German Kreul 'Gordet' oboe that is in fact the lighter weight 'standard' Kreul model. Excellent value for money. Kreul radically redesigned the keywork patterns in the 1990s- most of the key touches became flat, in stark contrast to the earlier 'domed' touch surfaces- 'flat keyboard' effect- takes time to become accustomed to the flat surfaces.

The 'Expression,' can be very good, at times 'just so.' The newest model called 'J' can be sublime. The 'J' seems to have a timbre reminiscent of a Laubin oboe. May need some minor touches to the voicing to have it 'just so' for American scraped reeds. The finish details at the 'sub-atomic' level not up to the same standard as Hiniker, Howarth, Loree, Bulgheroni, Marigaux. The Rigoutat oboes from the late 1950s will on occasion be an excellent value.

Loree seems to have used [so far] three different types of polymer to make their synthetic oboes. At first (from about CC [1969] to about 1980) Loree used a polymer, 'mottled' grey in color, that was different from any other polymer ever used by any other maker. Hard to find on the second hand market and expensive. Perhaps only about 40 such oboes exist. Next, Loree used a gray colored polymer. The solid gray may not be as desirable acoustically as the earlier mottled gray/white polymer oboes.

BULGHERONI - First class maker. The 'Opera' model by Bulgheroni is easily on a par with Loree. For me, the 'Opera' model on display at IDRS 2011 was THE best oboe of all. I bought it on the spot. The Violetwood version of the Opera model is sensational. A new model -'MUSA'- is receiving rave reviews.

I have had a well voiced Kholert oboe with a penetrating, haunting, semi-dark sound. I have had a (very rare) Kohlert sax-oboe that was as good as the best Loree sax-oboe. Usually best to avoid Kohlert instruments.

Perhaps someone realized their error in process. However, under the bottom of the reed receiver, a subtle V shape had been created by the drill. The V was less than ¼ inch deep. That is all it took to ruin the oboe. Fortunately, I was able to send this instrument to David Teitelbaum.

I buy a fair number of oboe instruments on Ebay. I always assume that every oboe I purchase on Ebay will need at the least a comprehensive overhaul: cleaning, polishing, new pads, key swaging and fitting, nylon tip adjustment screws, crack repair, and often re-voicing as well. Usually the cost for such service amounts to about $550 to about $900 on average. Another difficulty is that as an Ebay buyer you must be willing to take on a fair degree of risk. I estimate about a 15% rate of loss over all the purchases I have made so far on Ebay. For example, I have purchased two oboes (a beautiful Rigoutat and a classic Chauvet 'BW' series) that required entirely new upper joints to be made at great expense. Well intentioned repairmen had apparently 're-bored' the instruments using common drill bits with devastating results.

LESHER - Lesher made some 'full Consevatory' oboes. Some made before the buyout by Selmer play well, though the keywork is of marginal quality.

Smooth, dark, slightly 'covered' sound, with a 'glint' of oboe d'amore timbre. Laubin oboes made within the past few decades have half length (on rare occasion full length) polymer sleeves in the upper joint. The resale value of a fine Laubin oboe of any vintage is very high in comparison to most any other make except Hiniker. LARILEE - I began playing on a Larilee 'full Conservatory, professional model' oboe. The tone was 'extra bright.' The keywork and pad-work was of the most marginal quality. However, the oboe was well voiced and played easily.

A left F key is essential! A low Bb resonance key may be considered 'desirable.' I like having (when possible) a left hand ('long') C# key alongside (inboard of) the left F key. This eliminates the need for the 'banana key' for low C next to the D key. If you play (for instance) the second movement of Bax Quintet for Oboe and Strings, you will discover how useful the long C# key can be.

F.Loree Oboe.Serial Number help please Author: Date: 2010-08-02 23:14 Hello all,I was wondering if anyone might enlighten me with a serial number for an F.Loree paris Oboe please?

MARIGAUX- Excellent maker overall. Some of the Marigaux oboes (S-M-L, Strasser, or Marigaux) were marketed by the King Musical Instrument Company back in the 1960 and 1970s.

A common practice nowadays is simply to dry the wood for a year or two in an insulated box ('kiln') at 125 degrees. In my estimation, this drying process is absolutely no substitute for seasoning wood! Drying wood IS part of the oboe manufacturing process, though only AFTER wood has been well seasoned. With wood being of such dubious quality nowadays, I am amazed that oboe manufacturers do not simply sleeve the upper joints of their instrument with PET polymer liners. Subject to change! OBOES AMATI - AVOID! ADLER - The model 6000 (French style) oboe is worth a look.

Tom Hiniker's attention to detail is without equal in the realm of oboe making. The ergonomics of the keywork is second to none. L--o--n--g waiting list. A second hand Hiniker oboe will often realize a higher price than new. HECKEL - Excellent maker, though Heckel has not made oboes since 1964. Many of the older Heckel oboes not pitched at A=440! HOWARTH - First class maker, beautiful oboes in every respect.

The 'Buffet' oboes from the 1960s and 1970s were in fact made by Marigaux- even having the Marigaux serial numbers- some good- some excellent oboes. Same as the 'King-Marigaux' oboes. BULGHERONI - First class maker. The 'Opera' model by Bulgheroni is easily on a par with Loree.

INPA for Windows 10- I have found it, it's an all in one executable that installed Inpa 5.0.6, BMW Coding Tool, Ediabas, NCSExpert and other tools, with SP-Daten integrated Verified connectivity and it's working on my e39 m5. Inpa and ncs expert for windows 10. NCS/INPA Download: Access to the direct download of NCS-Expert, INPA 6.4.3, INPA 5.02 and bonus coding files can be found here. Full.PDF Installation Walkthrough Guide We have created a very detailed walkthrough guide on how to install, configure and get NCS-Expert running can be found here. How to install BMW INPA 5.0.2 Windows 10 64bit. TOPICS: BMW INPA BMW INPA 5.0.2..BMW INPAwill work with few select things for an E38 such as resetting adaptations, diagnostics, code reading, etc. NCS Expert will NOT run on a 64-bit operating syetm. If you have a 32-bit version of Windows 10, please feel free to try ECS Expert and let me. Make sure you link all the proper folders in BMW Coding Tool (to Ediabas, NCS Expert etc.) Glad to hear it's all well. I am still ecstatic that i got it working on windows 10. Windows 10 INPA with working NCS Expert Coding tool, NCS Dummy winfkp and TOOL32, Show how to install the software on windows 10 64bit Software here remote install with all orders on INPA and NCS.

The (very rare) all plastic Italian Gordet is one of the best sounding of all plastic oboes extant. Excellent value on the second hand market with respect to value for money. GORDET / HOLLANDER - 'Italian model' - first class oboes in every respect, beautifully voiced. GOUBET - Good maker. GUASTI - (Florence) Enrico Guasti made some good oboes, though overall an inconsistent maker. GRAESSEL - no information available reputed to be very good.

However, I did find one example at the 2011 IDRS convention that I liked. Perhaps best to try a bunch. The 'Greenline' oboes can (and do) crack! Not possible to repair if cracked, except to have a new joint made at great expense if not still under warranty. AVOID any of the Buffet 'student' model and 'modified Conservatory' oboes - dreadful!

Ring System Instruments. I love ring system instruments!

I am extremely fond of Lym oboes. MAHEU (Belgium) - No information available. MALERNE - Usually best to simply AVOID Malerne oboes. Very inconsistent, though I have found one or two examples that had a huge, singing tone, almost reminiscent of a late model Loree 'ak' bore oboe. The keywork of the later Malerne oboes is 'clunky' in the extreme. MARIGAUX- Excellent maker overall. Some of the Marigaux oboes (S-M-L, Strasser, or Marigaux) were marketed by the King Musical Instrument Company back in the 1960 and 1970s.

After the rounds have seasoned, any cracked or warped pieces will (should) be discarded. Nowadays, some of the large oboe manufacturers do not have the luxury of seasoning the wood as in 'the old days.'

I retrofit all of the oboes I have for sale or in my collection with nylon of Teflon tip adjustment screws. The synthetic tip screws make the adjustments super secure and long lasting. I can not discern any difference in mechanical noise between the traditional metal screw against cork and the synthetic tipped screw against metal. The difficulty with the traditional screw to cork set up is that the metal screw is constantly cutting into and compressing its companion cork, thus necessitating frequent adjustment.

CABART 74 (Loree Cabart 74) - Full system oboe, though lacking split ring D key. Good student oboe, though for sure overpriced with respect to playing characteristics. For about the same price, a Bulgheroni FULL Conservatory system professional oboe ('Artist' model) can be obtained. CHAUVET - Excellent maker. Imported and sold by Laubin in the 1950s- serial numbers: numbers only. Ben Storch took over the importation of Chauvet instruments from the late 1950s to the mid 1960s- serial numbers: 'BW' followed by numbers. Ben re-voiced the 'BW' oboes to his own specifications.

BHOSYS (stencil) - Some 'OK,' some indifferent, some truly not so good at all. Stencil instruments, mostly Malerne.

Some Chudnow oboe marked 'MCW' have full Conservatory system, some have 'modified' Conservatory system. COVEY - Excellent maker. Exquisite design and artisanship of keywork. I find the spacing between the low D (split ring D) and the low C touch to be too close in spacing (by 2mm) for all but an oboist having very small hands, thus ergonomically uncomfortable for oboists having medium to large hands. The 'Covey' sound is gorgeous, though I have found that some of the pre- 2004 Covey oboes I have played have a scale that I would characterize as being overly 'flexible'- the pitch centers simply do not seem to 'lock in.' And I also find some of the older Covey oboes seem to be difficult to finesse the transition between dynamics - seem to want to only play mf.